Wiveliscombe

Wiveliscombe is a former borough, market and cloth making town to the west of Taunton and five miles from the Devon/Somerset border. It is situated at the foot of the Brendon Hills and acts as a gateway to Exmoor. While the population of this rural centre is only about 2,500 persons, its shops and services meet the needs of a much larger population, spread through the western fifth of Taunton Deane, in scattered farms and villages. A traveller stopping off in the centre of the town gets no idea that this is the hub of a thriving business community. A survey in 1997 revealed that there were are least 300 businesses within a five mile radius of the town; 14 of these were trading internationally and a further 20, nationally. It has the headquarters of a firm of building motorway service stations and factories in the UK and Europe. A band saw manufacturer Edwards, manufacturer of kitchens, a pig processing factory, builders and specialist IT companies etc.

Wiveliscombe is also the brewing centre of Somerset with two breweries. There is a good variety of shops, a post office, one bank, two estate agents, solicitors, accountants, hairdressers, garages, inns and restaurants. There is also a doctors' surgery, a dentist and veterinary practice. The primary school serves most of the surrounding villages and Kingsmead Community School for pupils aged 11 - 16, rated by the DfEE as one of the top 50 state schools in England in 1998. The school houses a theatre and sports hall and a youth club and playgroup complementing the town's recreation ground where the tennis, rugby, cricket and football clubs have their bases. Wiveliscombe is an active town, set amidst beautiful countryside with easy access to Exmoor, the Quantocks and the north and south coast resorts. It is a good place to live in and an excellent place to visit in order to explore the West Country.

Wiveliscombe is a former borough, market and cloth making town to the west of Taunton and 5 miles from the Devon /Somerset border. It is situated at the foot of the Brendon Hills and acts as a gateway to Exmoor. While the population of this rural centre is only about 2,500 persons, its shops and services meet the needs of a much larger population, spread through the western fifth of Taunton Deane, in scattered farms and villages. Wiveliscombe has been an important site for many centuries as remains from pre-historic, Roman and Saxon times have been traced, including the fortifications of King’s Castle to the east and the Roman fort to the south-east.

Formerly 'The Langley House Hotel', Wiveliscombe which closed around 2003 and is now a home for severely autistic adults

Wiveliscombe is situated at the foot of the Brendon Hills and is the site of this small town has been important for many centuries, as remains from pre-historic, Roman and Saxon times have been traced, including the fortifications of King’s Castle to the east and the Roman fort to the south east.

The medieval bishops of Bath and Wells had a ‘palace’ here, one of several throughout Somerset, and the entrance archway can still be seen on Church Street.

The Market Square is the hub of the town, and several of the buildings around it and along the High Street have their origins in the late medieval period. In 1285 Edward I granted the Bishop of Bath and Wells a market and a three day fair. By 1301 ‘Wivvy’, as it is known locally, is described as a Borough with shops paying rent around the Market Place, then known as the Shambles.

A dominant building on the Wiveliscombe skyline is the former brewery built by the Hancock family during the 19th century. Having moved to Wiveliscombe in 1805, they quickly expanded their brewing business to become one of the most well known breweries in the south west of England. Some of the old brewery buildings are now used by the Exmoor Brewery.

During the Second World War art treasures from London were evacuated to Wiveliscombe.

St.Andrew, Wiveliscombe

Wiveliscombe - from the personal name Wifla and the Old English cumb 'Wifla's Valley'. Note: Wifel is the Old English for arrow Wivelescome in the Domesday Book (1086). The unusual red tile-hung, timber jettied building at the top of the High Street, the Court House, was built by the Hancock family in the 1880’s. animalsand the Hancocks’ initials. St. Andrew’s Church was built relatively recently, 1827-9, on the site of a medieval church. It was designed by the county architect of the time, Richard Carver. Under the church are extensive vaults in which are buried some of the families of those who purchased the right when the church was rebuilt. These vaults were used during the Second World War to store art treasures from London. Lying north of the Carboniferous rocks of central Devon, there is an east-west belt of Devonian rocks which extends from the coast at Ilfracombe and embraces Exmoor and the Brendon Hills, and occurs as an inlier in the Quantock Hills. The Brendons are characterised by rolling hills deeply dissected by wooded valleys. They rise to over 400 metres at Wiveliscombe Barrow, and to the west they merge into Exmoor. The sandstones, mudstones, siltstones and slates are overlain generally by fine loamy reddish soil, the land being used principally for dairying and stock rearing.

There are a number of mixed forest plantations, particularly to the north of the area, and some of these have open access. During the 19th century a number of small mining settlements grew around local deposits of iron ore, and many buildings and features from this industry remain. With the advent of motorised vehicles, the number of so-called green lanes has diminished rapidly. These tracks, here known as Greenway Lane, Jew’s Lane and Kit’s Lane, have great cultural and historical value. They may represent routes that have been in use since pre-historic times, perhaps trodden by Roman legions, pilgrims, medieval travellers or miners, or etched out by primitive sledges and cart wheels. The antiquity of the hedgerows and banks that often enclose these lanes makes them important wildlife habitats. Abbotsfield - this has a distinctive pyramid roof to the staircase tower of this mansion, built for the piano manufacturer Lacey Collard in the 1870’s. It was designed by Owen Jones, an influential Victorian design theorist, and is the only building of his surviving.

Wiveliscombe Somerset

Archaeologists excavating a previously unknown Romano-Celtic settlement near Wiveliscombe have discovered a stash of 2000 Roman coins placed in a pot and hidden under the floor of an ancient round house in a Roman settlement dating to 50AD to 400 AD on the hills above Wiveliscombe. The coins were almost all bronze in different sizes and denominations, but all were low value.
They mostly date from the late 3rd Century AD

What made this discovery more fascinating is that examinations show that Romano-British villagers at the Wiveliscombe settlement may have been living in round houses much longer than is commonly recorded. Archaeologists believe a site of this age should show signs of square, Roman houses, but the existence of only pre-Roman Iron Age style round houses shows our Somerset ancestors may have been behind the times in terms of their property style.

Wiveliscombe

Evidence of metal working taking place on-site also suggests that this site has close links to a large Roman iron working settlement, which was discovered at nearbyClatworthy Reservoir.

The Old Brewery Wiveliscombe

Also unearthed was a large amount of Roman pottery, including an item believed to be a knife blade.

Wiveliscombe from Maunden Hill

Mauden Hill and the new water treatment works 2006 

Situated at the foot of the Brendon Hills, the site of this small town has been important for many centuries, as remains from pre-historic,Roman and Saxon times have been traced, including the fortifications of King’s Castle to the east and the Roman fort to the south east. The medieval bishops of Bath and Wells had a ‘palace’ here, one of several throughout Somerset, and the entrance archway can still be seen onChurch Street. The Market Square is the hub of the town, and several of the buildings around it and along the High Street have their originsin the late medieval period.

In 1285 Edward I granted the Bishop of Bath and Wells a market and a three day fair. By 1301 ‘Wivvy’, as it is known locally, is described as a Borough with shops paying rent around the Market Place, then known as the Shambles. A dominant building onthe Wiveliscombe skyline is the former brewery built by the Hancock family during the 19th century. Having moved to Wiveliscombe in 1805,they quickly expanded their brewing business to become one of the most well known breweries in the south west of England. Some of the old brewery buildings are now used by the Exmoor Brewery.The unusual red tile-hung, timber jettied building at the top of the High Street, the Court House, was built by the Hancock family in the 1880’s.Note the elaborate carvings of figures, stylised fruit, mythical animalsand the Hancocks’ initials. St. Andrew’s Church was built relatively recently, 1827-9, on the site of a medieval church. It was designed by the county architect of the time, Richard Carver. Under the church are extensive vaults in which are buried some of the families of those who purchased the right when the church was rebuilt. These vaults were used during the Second World War to store art treasures from London. Winston Churchill is reputed to have said "…Where in the World is Wiveliscombe…"

The famous Hancocks brewery dominated it and regional economy. Formed in 1807, its vast array of buildings crests the hilltop, known as Golden Hill, and forms the skyline of the town visible for miles around. At one time the Hancock’s employed half the town’s workforce, and owned the best of the 36 town pubs! After the War, Hancock’s, as many other regional breweries, fell to the consolidation of the many by the few. Eventually in 1959 the site was abandoned.

Exmoor Ales "Golden Hill Brewery" occupied a modest part of the Hancock site in 1980, where it has remained since acquiring more land and buildings as it has grown, continuing something of the history of Wiveliscombe Brew Town, along with a neighbouring local brewery, Cotleigh, situated close by on the local industrial estate.

The little town of Wiveliscombe  is ensconced among steep hills, and thrives on a brewery. Its name means the " combe of Wifela," who was an Ancient British chieftain. On Castle Hill is a large camp of Celtic origin ; it was one of the chain of strongholds which once stretched across West Somerset from Neroche to the sea. The Romans seized it when they advanced to Exmoor; their coins were found there in 1711. The Danes held it after one of their periodic raids; in 1811 one of their leaden coffins was unearthed. The Litany of many local churches contains the additional deprecation : " From the fury of the Northmen, Good Lord deliver us."

Wiveliscombe was an independent hundred before, but not after, the Conquest. Edward the Confessor granted the manor " for the good of his soule " to the See of Wells, and the Bishop retained it during the reign of William I. In the time of Stephen the town minted its own coins. In 1170, William de Wyvilla presented some land to the Abbey of Bee. The Patent Rolls of 1207 note that protection was granted to John de Wyvel, when " going to Wales on the King's wars."

Evidently Wiveliscombe had troubles at home, for law-breakers abounded there. In 1225, a jury of 12 men of the Hundred of Kingsbury summoned a murderer before the Itinerant Justice of the Crown, but he fled and was outlawed. Again, in 1257, one Stephen de Brosco, brother of the vicar of Wiveliscombe, murdered, broke gaol, escaped and was outlawed. The law ruled that an outlaw could be tracked down and killed without mercy. In 1347, a Royal pardon was granted to John Stogal of Wiveliscombe, on account of his good service in Gascony with Henry Earl of Lancaster. Before joining the armies in France he had been accused of crimes ranging through trespasses, robberies, and breakings from prison, to homicides. No doubt the forefront of battle gave scope to his energetic temperament.

A stimulating quarrel about land broke out in 1378, between the Manor of Wiveliscombe and the Dean and Chapter of Wells. As a result, John Glovere was summoned before the local Justice of the Peace, and the parson put in disgrace. With such an example at the Vicarage, it was hardly remarkable that the parish should have sinned. Thomas Tumour was fined for leaving manure on the highway (which neighbouring gardeners must have considered a venial offence), and two enterprising millers named William Bawot and Henry atte Wych were punished for collecting tolls belonging to the Lord of the Manor. Wiveliscombe upheld its reputation for liveliness in 1384, and again in 1389, because two pardons were granted by the King for killing in self-defence.

During 1444, life flowed more smoothly. A flour mill was built at Ashbeare, and the mills at Croford were repaired. Sheep-farming prospered ; in one year alone the Manor Home Farm sent 257 fleeces to the Palace at Wells. Twenty-five years later Robert Cotes, " gentilman," was outlawed for not appearing at a bankruptcy court.

In 1558, broke out the feud which divided the Wiveliscombe district for a long time. The Star Chamber Court sat on Anthony Stawell of Cothelstone, supported by Michael and Richard Malet of St. Audries (the son and grandson of Sir Richard Malet, Solicitor-General to Henry VIII.) and William Trevelyan of Nettlecombe. Having had a dispute with Thomas Cappes of Wiveliscombe, they headed a party which was indignantly reported as armed with "5 long bows, 1 hand gun, forest bills, staves, a target and other weapons," and assaulted his house of Jewes. They drove off 21 cattle and 400 fat sheep to Rook's Castle, 12 miles away, and impounded them. Sir James FitzJames, the Chief Justice of the King's Bench, used his influence with Secretary Cromwell on Cappes' behalf; quite rightly, one would imagine. In 1581, the Star Chamber Court tried another case in which James Cappes of Jewes had summoned the Yea family of Wiveliscombe, " for dyvers vearye notable and owtragious ryotts and other misdemeanoures by them before that time committed and done." The accused pleaded not guilty, so a committee was appointed to sit at Wiveliscombe and judge the matter. After a stormy meeting, no conclusion was reached. A second commission was appointed. Meanwhile Cappes tried to attack Yea with a dagger, and was sent to the Fleet Prison.

During the reign of Elizabeth, England suffered from fear of a Spanish invasion. The whole country threw itself into preparations for the Armada. Constables were appointed for every hundred, to take the names of men and see that they were furnished with weapons and armour. In the " Tithing of Wiveliscombe " there was a list prepared of 11 archers, 3 pikemen, 2 light horsemen, and 10 billmen.
In 1622, Cappes' daughter Silvestra married George Luttrell of Dunster Castle as his second wife. Apparently the Cappes family had the knack of rousing dislike among their neighbours. They were also Roman Catholics. When the Act of Uniformity was passed, there were 9 Cappes among the 13 recusants of Wiveliscombe. They, and the Yeas, had been numbered among the ratepayers since 1602. In 1625, the houses belonging to the Story family (who had provided the remaining 4 recusants) were searched for armour in fear of a Roman Catholic rising. The searchers reported that they took " from each a corslett furnished . . . and we have also taken from the foresaid Henry Story one long pike."

In 1633, Gerard the historian published his " Particular Description of Somerset." He remarked that Wiveliscombe was " a slender markett towne, and hath for hundreds of years belonged to the Church of Wells." The little town was involved in the Civil War. Both forces met between Wiveliscombe and Milverton, and Colonel John Luttrell (who commanded the party of Roundheads) was killed. He and two of his soldiers were buried at Wiveliscombe. The local Royalists were heavily penalised during the Commonwealth. One man had his holding confiscated ; another, a miller, was fined £38. John Bourne Esquire, of Gothelney, owned an estate in Wiveliscombe; he was fined £500, besides the damage done to felled orchards and timber, his house at Taunton was destroyed, and 180 dragoons were quartered on him during the siege of Bridgwater. John Coventry, the largest property-owner in the place, and who had surrendered at Exeter, was fined £4,000.

When levies were raised for Duke Monmouth in the west-country, many men from Wiveliscombe enrolled. Those who were not slaughtered by artillery among the rhines of Sedgemoor, were killed by Judge Jefferys. They were hanged; their bodies were boiled in oil, and distributed to gibbets at various crossroads as warnings to the countryside. From Somerset alone, 68 men were shipped on board the " Jamaica Merchant " and transported to the West Indies. Their trades sound pathetically peaceful. There were 10 weavers, 12 combers (wool workers), 4 clothiers, 8 ribbon-weavers, 1 ploughman, 2 carpenters, 3 butchers, 1 tailor, 2 shoemakers, 8 glovers, 1 soap-boiler, 1 hatter, 1 tanner, and 2 masons. Among them were 2 boys of only 15 years old. Some Taunton girls who had embroidered a banner for Monmouth, were also sold as slaves. The King wrote to the Governor of Jamaica that the rebels should serve their masters for 10 years, " without permission to redeem themselves by money or otherwise till that term be expired."

During the 17th and 18th centuries there were numerous Quakers in Wiveliscombe. After the Jacobite Rebellion in 1715, there were 24 local men taken prisoner, some of whom were discharged. In 1777, the historian Collinson noted that the little town had 2 weekly markets, 7 streets, one " was very steep," and the population was 1,900. By 1901 it had sunk to 1,417. There were three fairs yearly for the sale of sheep and pedlars' stuff. At the end of the 18th century a racecourse was made on Maundown, but an Act of Parliament a hundred years later inclosed and divided that tract of 500 acres. In 1798, Captain Lacy Yea commanded the Wiveliscombe Volunteers, of whom there were 71.

In 1814 Wiveliscombe celebrated the Peace by a remarkable procession. It represented the local trades. There were shepherds shearing sheep in a waggon, men carrying fleeces, wool-carders carding, spinners spinning, and men weaving, fulling, dyeing, and tailoring cloth ; between them they made a coat. A blacksmith hammered a set of horseshoes during the procession. Saddlers, cordwainers, sawyers, masons, painters, and ploughmen guiding 12 yoke of harnessed oxen, followed the band. The bailiff of the borough and 6 yeomen cavalry completed this parade. They marched all round the parish, had a sumptuous meal in the field called High Park, and then competed in sports.

The church was built in 1829, and contains little of interest except a monument to Humphry Wyndham and his wife, who died in the 17th century. They were members of the loyal Somerset family who fought so gallantly and suffered so bitterly during the Civil War. In the churchyard is an old cross with a defaced effigy. To the south of the town are the remains of the Bishop's Palace, that was built by John Drokensford in the 14th century. Its windows were pillaged from the ruins, and can be traced in neighbouring houses. The main street has a modern town hall and market-house.

The small town of Wiveliscombe, situated at the foot of the Brendon Hills. It has been an important site for many rpnturies as remains from Pre-historic, Roman and Saxon Times have been traced, including the fortifications of King's Castle to the east and the Roman fort to the south east. In the 17th century there was growing awareness that the application of lime on acid soils improved crop yields. Much of the soil in west Somerset, having developed on non-calcareous rocks, tends towards acidity and therefore a number of limekilns and quarries were established along this outcrop.The limestone was sorted by hand from the non-calcareous stones and burnt with coal (in alternate layers) to produce the lime. It is thought that the burning of lime for agricultural use declined in west Somerset towards the end of the 19th century as crushed limestone and artificial fertilisers became available.