Tiverton

Tiverton grew up as a settlement in the 9th century, close to where the River Lowman joins the River Exe. The pink-sandstone castle was built between the 12th to 14th centuries, and was once the home of the Courtenay family, Earls of Devon.  One of Tiverton's assets during the Middle Ages was its supply of fresh drinking water, which still bubbles up from Coggan's Well in Fore Street. Here, twice a year, the mayor proclaims the opening of the town fair, and every seven years, in September, the ancient stream is "perambulated" and claimed by the townsfolk.

Textiles have been the basis of Tiverton's prosperity since the 13th century. They still are, but the mills and other factories are hidden on the fringes of the town. Old Blundell's School was built in 1604 by a local wool merchant. The original building in Station Road is preserved by the National Trust, and on its lawn - known as the "Ironing Box" - John Ridd fought Robin Snell in Lorna Doone. The school moved to more extensive premises a mile from the town in" 1882.

Tiverton Castle
Part Grade I Listed and part Scheduled Ancient Monument, few buildings evoke such an immediate feeling of history as Tiverton Castle, originally built in 1106 by Richard de Redvers on orders of Henry I. The de Redvers were the first Earls of Devon and when the line died out in 1293 they were succeeded as Earls by the Courtenays, who rebuilt and enlarged the Castle, and they regarded it as their "head and chief mansion".

Tiverton Castle

In 1495 Princess Katherine Plantagenet, daughter of Edward IV, married William Courtenay who became Earl of Devon. She died in 1527 and was buried in St. Peter's Church. Unfortunately for the Courtenays this royal marriage led to their eventual downfall in that turbulent age, and the senior line died out in 1556, and the Castle subsequently had various owners down the ages.

During the English Civil War the Castle was besieged by Fairfax in 1645, and fell to him due to a lucky shot hitting a drawbridge chain. There is a fine collection of Civil War arms and armour, some pieces of which can be tried on.

Nowadays the Castle is a peaceful, private house, and the buildings, furnishings and exhibits reflect the colourful history and development. With continuing conservation in the Castle and beautiful walled gardens there is always something new and interesting to see.

Tiverton Castle
Tiverton
Devon EX16 6RP
Tel: 01884 253200/255200
Fax: 01884 254200
email: This e-mail address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it
www.tivertoncastle.com

An early Castle was possibly raised in Tiverton around 1106.  Nothing remains of that construction and what we see today was begun by the ubiquitous Devon family, the Courtenays around the year 1300.  The layout; gatehouse, quadrangle, corner towers... is very typical of the period.  The 'back' of the Castle stands over the River Exe.

Tiverton Castle

Hugh Courtenay, who built the Castle, became Earl of Devon and made Tiverton his administrative capital.  Thus the Castle became very important.  The Courtenays feel from favour in 1539 and the Castle became the property of the Giffard family who built the Tudor house into the fabric of the Castle.  Tiverton's moment of glory was during the Civil War.  The Roundheads attacked in early 1645, but were repulsed.  General Fairfax, the famed Cromwellian commander who did more to win the Civil War than Cromwell ever did, arrived and put paid to both the Castle's resistance (in October of 1645) and to the Giffard family...thereafter he moved on to nearby Bickleigh Castle and did the same to the Carews there. Fairfax also demolished the western wall, the one which overlooked the River, and slighted the rest of the Castle. Today Tiverton Castle is a museum and is open to the public during the summer months.

Tiverton's name comes from " Twifordton," meaning the " town with two fords." It stands beside the Rivers Exe and Lowman, both of which are bridged now. There is an earthwork called Cranmore on the hill, probably the original village which formed the capital of its hundred (a division of territory comprising 100 families) in Alfred's time. Then Tiverton was divided into 12 tithings and was governed by a portreeve. Raiding Danes were massacred there by the order of Aethelred. Before the Conquest, Tiverton was part of the royal demesne. During Harold's reign, it was held by his mother Gytha. Domesday Book records that it had 68 inhabitants.

The church was consecrated by Leofric in 1073. In 1106 Richard de Redvers, whose family had been Lords of the Manor since the reign of Henry I., built the castle. At the death of Baldwin de Redvers, his widow Amicia claimed the Manor and lordship of Tiverton as part of her dower. She recorded that, at that time, it had a weekly market and three fairs annually. Isabella de Redvers presented the Elmore estate to the poor inhabitants of Tiverton for the pasturage of their cattle, and ordered the Town Leat to be conducted 5 miles in order for them to use the water. Later, her daughter Avelina married Edmund Earl of Lancaster, the second son of Henry III. The manor of Tiverton then passed to Hugh Courtenay, the first Earl of Devon, who divided the parish into four quarters to spite a greedy chaplain. The division remained, until altered by a recent Act of Parliament. The Courtenay family held it until the Marquis of Exeter was attainted; but Queen Mary restored the manor to Edward Courtenay in gratitude for his services to the Roman Catholic religion. Since 1759 it has been in the possession of the Carews.

Tiverton Castle endured several sieges, and saw much fighting during the reign of Stephen. In the Wars of the Roses, it was held first by the Lancastrians and then by the Yorkists. In 1549, the Devonshire peasants revolted against the use of Edward VII.'s new Prayer-book, and a pitched battle was fought at St. Mary's Clyst, near Exeter. There was another skirmish at Cranmore, outside Tiverton, where the recusants were defeated. Afterwards all prisoners were hanged, drawn and quartered. The townsfolk suffered as many perils in peace as in war. A severe outbreak of plague afflicted them in 1590; and, eight years later, a fire destroyed 400 houses, killed 33 people and caused the loss of £150,000. Since the 14th century it had been a centre of the woollen trade, and exported cloth all over England. During Charles I.'s reign the Tiverton merchants complained that the " Irish wool" was spoiling their markets; so the Earl of Strafford issued an edict which suppressed the Irish trade. In 1604 Peter Blundell, a rich Tiverton clothier, founded the school which bears his name. R. D. Blackmore, in his famous novel " Lorna Doone," says of Tiverton: "The chief boast of that ancient town (next to its woollen staple) is a worthy grammar school, the largest in the West of England, founded and handsomely endowed in the year 1604 by Master Peter Blundell, of the same place, clothier. . . . The school-house stands beside the stream, not very large called Lowman, which flows into the broad river of Exe, about a mile below." A tablet on the gate is inscribed " Old Blundell A.D. 1604." Since then the school has been moved outside the town, and the lovely mellow building is now a private house. Several notable men were educated there; Archbishop Temple of Canterbury, and Parson Jack Russell, the west-country sportsman who hunted his own hounds and left his name to a breed of game little terriers. John Wesley's elder brother, Samuel, was headmaster of Blundell's for six years, and died at Tiverton.
In 1612, the town suffered another disastrous fire which destroved some 600 houses and property valued at £200,000". During the Civil War the castle changed hands. At first, it was garrisoned for the King, although the townsmen were mostly Roundheads, and the church was occupied as a Royalist outpost. Then, in October 1645, Fairfax assembled his troops at Cadbury, an earth work which faces Dolbury across the River Exe. Legend declares that a treasure lies there, guarded by a dragon : " If Cadbury Castle and Dolbury Hill dolven were Then Devon might plough with a golden coulter, And eare with a gilded shere."

On this occasion Fairfax spared no attention for folklore, but detached General Massey to besiege Tiverton Castle, which was commanded by Sir Gilbert Talbot. It was taken by storm, after great slaughter, on Sunday, October 19th. Later, Fairfax returned from his conquest of the loyal west, and demolished the castle.

Situated in the South West of England in the Mid Devon district, Tiverton is situated in between two rivers, the River Exe and the River Lowman. It is the perfect base to explore the beautiful county of Devon, with Exmoor National Park to the north and Dartmoor National Park to the south of the town. Surrounding areas include the larger towns of Cullompton and Crediton and the smaller picturesque rural villages such as Bampton and Rackenford which are both located on the edge of Exmoor. As a popular holiday destination, Mid Devon has a number of attractions available for all ages with an array of accommodation types including camping, caravanning, self-catering cottages and a variety of hotels in Devon.

A Brief History
The name of the town derived from Twy-ford-ton which means the town of two fords the River Exe and the River Lowman. Human occupation dates back to the Stone Age. An Iron Age hill fort, Cranmore, stands at the top of Exeter Hill above the town, and a Roman fort was discovered on the hillside below Knightshayes Court near Bolham, just to the north of the town.

In the Middle Ages, Tiverton was the industrial hub of Devon, particularly in the wool and textile trade which meant the town grew considerably in the 16th and 17th centuries. A number of the wealthier wool merchants contributed to the towns expansion, and now heritage, with their involvement in the funding and building of an additional chapel to St Peters Church and Blundells School for the local children.

Natural Attractions
To the north of Tiverton lies Exmoor National Park which offers tranquil moorland, winding rivers, a breathtaking coastline and rugged cliffs. This unspoilt countryside is a haven for walkers, horse riders and mountain bikers. Other activities on offer include hand gliding, water sports such as sailing and canoeing, fishing and shooting. Coastal walks worth experiencing include walks in and around Porlock, Lynton, Lynton and around the Valley of Rocks. Sailing is best explored on Wimbleball Lake and canoeing can take place on the rivers Exe and Barle.

Historical Attractions
The Grand Western Canal Country Park is 11 and a quarter miles long, situated in Tiverton. The park is popular with walkers and wildlife enthusiasts, with an abundance of plants and animals, with birds such as Kingfishers making a frequent appearance.

The canal towpath is links to several other public paths and is now accessible for cyclists cycle hire is available from Abbotshood Cyclehire, Greenway Bridge and Halberton. Additionally, you can explore the canal by rowing boat, canoes and small motorised boats.

Knighthayes Court is a striking Victorian mansion with beautiful views overlooking the Devonshire countryside. Situated in Bolham near Tiverton, this house reveals a fascinating insight into grand Victorian life and is perfect for all the family. There is also a gift shop, plant shop and licensed restaurant.

Other attractions include Bickleigh Mill and Tiverton Museum, and there is The Devon Railway Centre and Diggerland for attractions for all the family.

Contributed by: Wiil Simmons, Jane Meek